Let’s discuss Vinyl Liner  Pool Bottoms, as there are several ways to install a bottom under a vinyl-liner in a new pool installation.

The oldest way, and the worst way, was to trowel some sand on the dirt, wet it , and try to make it smooth before laying a vinyl liner over it. That way is horrible, because you get foot-prints in the bottom of the liner, which look terrible after a few uses of the pool by the swimmers.

Another way that many, cheap vinyl pool builder/installers have placed on the bottom, under the liner, is to mix sand with cement in a mixer, and then trowel it on, over the dirt bottom, and then lay the vinyl-liner over it. This eliminates the foot-print problem that one has with just plain sand. Unfortunately this much cheaper method, of sand/cement, does not hold up very well after a few years, and can actually shorten the life of the liner because it is an abrasive substrate.  When one goes to change the liner, for a new one, this cheap type of floor, sticks to the bottom of the old liner and causes deep pockets, where the sand/cement has lifted off. This then requires, a lot of work to fix the bad spots with new material before one can lay a new liner over the old bottom.


For a smooth, permanent, and mostly trouble-free vinyl pool bottom, the proper, but more expensive way, to install a bottom, is to use ONLY VERMICULITE & PORTLAND CEMENT, (NO SAND AT ALL IN THE MIX!) that is mixed in a mortar mixer, and then troweled-on like concrete decking!

Troweled to a smooth surface, this mix provides a non-abrasive substrate. It supports and cushions the liner much better than sand/cement bases. It doesn’t mold, decay or deteriorate from moisture contact, and will help insulate the pool. And there are no footprints or rot, in a Vermiculite & Portland Cement mixture. Questions call Rich at: 609-313-0300…



Buying an in-ground pool is a big purchase. What pool buyers want is of the utmost importance.

The buying experience is as important as the pool stuff when you want to build a pool in your backyard. And today, most people do not want to sit through a high-pressure sales presentation. This purchase should be easier, simple and faster than in the past.

We pool builders should keep our customers totally informed, notified of any and all time frames or changes, and communicate with you our clients. We expect to be partners on this pool project and you should be in charge.

We should be prompt, timely and professional. We will do what we said we will do, and when we said we will do it. We will also work hard to keep your property clean and respected. Most pool builders have given our industry a reputation for making a mess, and disrespecting their customers property.

Not Us!

Lastly, it’s worth noting that our superior products and processes are not the cheapest in town. If one only wants the low-ball cheapest, with lesser quality pool components and materials, and cut-corner construction processes, they probably don’t want us at ParadisePoolandSpa.Com.

To sum it up; if you want information before, during, and after you purchase, and not just about the product, but about the who, how, why, and when of pool construction, and treatment of your property with respect, then you want to speak to me, Rich DeMarco; designer/builder of in-ground vinyl-liner pools, in the seven(7) South Jersey Counties. Phone: 609-313-0300


We are often asked; What do we think about salt water pools.

We have been building pools with salt-water systems since 1990.

Our salt chlorine generators are far and away the favorite item on the pools that we build.

People ask: “What is a salt-water pool?” You simple add table salt to your pool. You can’t taste it. It’s only 3,000 parts per million of salt, whereas the ocean is 35,000 to 50,000 PPM of salt.

In a salt pool and electrode, called a cell, is installed in the plumbing line. The electrical reaction with the salt in the water creates Free Chlorine Gas. This sanitizes your pool water while your pump is running. The chlorine produced by a salt water pool is a higher quality of chlorine, that does not have the negative effects of traditional chlorine, like the chloramine smell, red eyes, and itchy skin.

With a salt pool you no longer have to purchase chlorine tablets, liquid chlorine or shock, as the salt system will be creating all of your chlorine.


  1. No buying of chlorine at your pool store.
  2. No hand adding of chlorine.
  3. No shocking, except in beginning of season, in most cases.
  4. You are making your own chlorine.
  5. No chlorine smell.
  6. No red eyes or itchy skin.
  7. It’s all natural.
  8. No green pool in most cases, if pump and filtration system is operating properly and running long enough each day.


Vinyl Pool Pump Troubleshooting, Part 2

What do you do when a pool pump starts but then turns off, or when the pump runs rough or just doesn’t sound right?

Much like a pump that will not simply turn-on, a pump that starts and then turns off, many times involves a problem with the electrical system.  Electricity and water are a very dangerous combination, so never attempt to do any kind of electrical work or testing without a full understanding of safe methods; or better yet call a professional.

If your pump makes a humming noise and then trips the electrical  breaker, you might have a seized pump motor, which usually means the brushes in the motor are shot, and a new motor is in order.

If there is just a little rust holding back the motor from spinning, you sometimes can get lucky by tapping the side of the motor with a rubber mallet. This might dislodge the rust and the windings inside can then rotate freely.

Sometimes a technician can spin the motor, with the power off, by removing the motor from the from of the pump, and this might do the trick.

Sometimes you might have a failed start capacitor. But be careful start capacitors store a charge and can explode when disassembled. Again, it might be better to call a professional.

If your pump runs for a while, but then trips the breaker, most likely it is because the pump is running too hot. Again, a new motor is usually needed, if there are no restrictions in the water-flow through the pipes. But restricted water-flow will cause a pool pump to run too hot and turn off as a protection. Pipes and valves will need to be thoroughly checked!

If over time you hear a strange noise from your pump, you probably have a bearing problem. They are metal and breakdown over time. Time for a new motor on the back of your pump.



Tanning ledges or also known as Lounger Ledges have become very popular today with new pool construction.

Why is there a rise in popularity? It adds an entirely new and different dimension to how people use their pools. With an average depth of 14 inches, in a vinyl-liner pool, it seems perfect to lounging partially submerged in water and enjoying the sun tanning experience.

Up until now it was not thought of for Vinyl-Liner Pools. But we have perfected the building of this feature into a typical vinyl-liner pool. We use special techniques that make it a viable vinyl pool option.

Plus we use special, non-skid, vinyl liners, on the lounger-ledge area, and that makes it easy to walk into and play or just sit, either in the water with no chaise lounge, or on chairs and lounges, some made specifically for this tanning ledge.

Most of the Lounger-Ledges, that we build, are approximately 8 to 10 wide, allowing for plenty of room for chaise lounges. As an example, if your pool is 16 feet wide, we might build a 10 x 16 foot ledge with approximately 11-14 inches of water, or a 12′ x 10′ ledge as part of a true-‘L’ pool, as seen in this photo. Questions call: Rich at:


Vinyl Liner Pool filters eventually become dirty and in need of cleaning.


If you have a cartridge filter, remove the cartridge and wash it down with a garden hose. Use the standard spray nozzle. You can also purchase some fancy pool-specific ones, but not necessary in most cases. Do not use a pressure washer on the cartridge, as you will most likely puncture a hole through the cartridge. Just wash all the pleats until no dirt comes out of the bottom.


If you have a sand or D.E. filter, your will need to backwash the filter through the backwash hose. Run the hose to a safe place and turn the multiport valve to “Backwash” position. Run the system in backwash for 30-90 seconds, or until. the sight glass is clear. Turn off the system. Then turn the multiport valve to “Rinse” position. Run it again for 30-60 seconds or so until the glass turns clear. You just might have to repeat this process 2-3 times. When you are done, turn the valve back to “Filter” position, before turning the system back on.

If you have a sand filter, you’re all done. But if you have a D.E. filter, you have to recharge the filter with fresh D.E. Powder through the skimmer with the system running. The amount of new  D.E. powder needed,  will be printed on your filter. Questions call Rich at: 609-313-0300


Here is some important information about corrosion damage to “salt water pools”.

Salt water generators have gained greatly in popularity. They are a great replacement for traditional pool sanitation methods, such as adding chlorine directly to the pool-water on a regular basis. They are great solution for pool-owners who prefer not storing and using harsh chemicals, and who also enjoy more “automated” pool care.

But we must be mindful of salt corrosion, to metals and pool-heaters. Overtime damage can eventually be severe and expensive. This can effect all metal parts, including but not limited to heaters, lights, old metal niches as opposed to the new plastic niches, automatic covers and metal railings and ladders.


There is an electrical current generated, with salt,  that effects high-grade metals more slowly than weaker metals. ZINC is a weak metal that will erode faster than other metals, essentially “sacrificing” itself to prevent corrosion to other areas of the pool.

We use the  “CMP POOL DEFENDER” Sacrificial Zinc Anode. It is designed to prevent the damage caused by salt-water sanitation systems.

The Zinc Anode will erode instead of your expensive heaters,etc.

It is tied into the pool bonding wire, thereby protecting the entire pool.

Simply replace the inexpensive ($40-$50) zinc anode after half of it has eroded, typically 2 years.

You will enjoy the salt-water feeling and your pool equipment will be saved from corrosion from salt “galvanic corrosion”.

Questions call: Rich at: 609-313-0300…



Algae elimination in Vinyl Liner pools is not all that hard sometimes.

Nitrogen is food for algae. But nitrogen might be hard to get rid of without emptying the water from the vinyl pool.

Hypo chlorination can kill algae in most situations. Just shock the vinyl liner pool with 20 times the normal amount of chlorine. It should brush away.

But if it doesn’t brush away it’s a mineral, If it brushes away it’s algae.

CALCIUM HARDNESS in Vinyl liner pools: Calcium Hardness is a measure of the calcium ion concentration present in the water. Recommended levels are:

minimum: 150ppm

Ideal 200-400ppm

TDS: TDS is short for TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS in a vinyl pool. The range is up to 1500ppm at the top end.

TA: TA is short for Total Alkalinity. It’s the ability of water to buffer itself, which reduces PH swings. Ideal is: 80-120ppm to keep the PH from swinging.

Always adjust Alkalinity first and PH second.



There are several options for Vinyl Pool Walls.

Most inground vinyl liner pool are built with Galvanized-Steel pool-walls. But it has been known that galvanized steel pool walls rust and corrode over time. The unprecedented increase in raw material pricing for steel, aluminum and plastic has forced many manufacturers in the swimming pool industry to cut back on the quality of the products they manufacture in an effort to stay competitive.

For example: the standard 8-foot inground steel pool panel is 40% lighter today, with less zinc coating and galvanization then the standard panel of 10 or 12 years ago.

The way to combat this problem, is to take the galvanized pool-panel and coat it with polyester powder-coating, that is then baked-on in a 400 degree oven. This re-establishes the rust and corrosion resistance lost in the typical steel pool-wall manufacturing.

And all of the cut edges, punched holes for skimmers, lights, and return fittings are now polyester powder-coated. These cutouts, etc. are not coated in plain galvanized steel pool-panels.

Only the extra step in polyester powder-coating, can fix this problem. Here is a photo of the plain (NON COATED)  galvanized pool-panel showing rust at the skimmer cut-out.



There are many reasons why vinyl pool water turns cloudy. But keeping vinyl pool water clear is really not all that hard. Just follow some simple rules.

Many times a vinyl pool can turn cloudy from lack of proper sanitizer level, or free chlorine level; which means chlorine shock is now needed. However, there can be other reasons.

Here are some things to consider.


There are several types of filters used on vinyl liner pools, and they perform differently. Some types of pool water filters, filter finer particles out of the pool water than others; as seen below.

*SAND FILTERS with sand as the media inside: 25 to 50 microns (High rate sand filters work the best)

A micron-sized particle is equal to one millionth of a meter. To visualize this consider that a grain of salt is 100 microns; a strand of human hair is 70 microns; a red blood cell is 8 microns; and a bacterium is 1 micron.

*SAND FILTERS WITH GLASS MEDIA INSIDE INSTEAD OF SAND: They will filter down to 2 to 5 microns vs. 25 to 50 for sand media!

*DIATOMACEOUS EARTH (D.E.): 4-6 microns


There is dust in the air of our backyards that measures from 90 microns down to 0.1 micron. On windy days, all of this dust can get in our pool.

Most times the properly working filter will trap most of this. But some problems could arise with a worn-out cartridge, dirty sand bed, or worn-out sand bed (usually over 3 to 5 year old sand media inside); or an insufficient amount of sand; or worn-out D.E. powder inside.

A  D.E. filter, can have broken, torn, pin-holed, or defective D.E. grids inside, or can have scaled grids, which would require removal and severe cleaning with a special solution by a professional service tech .

Cartridge filters could also be, torn, pin-holed, dirty, clogged from oils, or just old.

Sometimes the problem is with the pool pump. It might not be working to ensure proper flow, or could have a defective impeller.

If the filter and pump are working properly, but the pool stays cloudy, it’s time for chemical treatment and/or heavy chlorine shocking!

Stay tuned for Part Two…Questions Call Rich at: 609-313-0300…www.paradisepoolandspa,com